A thermal pad it'll improve those thermals and it allow you to increase the power limit. If you wanted to boost the performance, mostly the graphics performance, so you don't have to do this model whatsoever. If you don't need to okay, the thermals are perfectly fine, as they are out of the box, so to open it up before we get started. You need to remove the two rear rubber feet, because we actually have two screws hidden underneath this. So once you remove all the rear screws, including ones for the SSD hatch, then you can lift the whole back off. So the easy method of this mod would be to just simply place a two millimeter thick thermal pad a nice large one right here over the top of the chipset and just leave it at that. That will transfer. I feel enough heat to the rear case to act as display a larger heatsink enough to increase that power limit to nine or ten watts. Now, because we're going to be touching around the circuit board, it would be wise to unplug the battery now which I've done right here, as you can see, so just lift up that tape and then unplug that connector there. Now you will lose any settings in your BIOS now lifting up that heatsink, you can see, there is the Gemini Lake and all it had on top of it was just a very thin thermal pad, which is 0.5 millimeters thick, so just cleaned up the top of The CPU die there as you can see, and I removed this zoom or pan as the stock, one that was on top of the heatsink that's just off camera at the moment.

So you can use a 15 by 15 one millimeter, thick, copper, shim, fine! That I've got right here or 21. Does it even larger? Now? Yes, you can see all those resistors around there that are very close to that. That could cause problems. It could touch, it could short, but in my experience I've been doing this for years. That has never actually happened to me because when you put the thermal paste on there and then you screw back the heatsink it's not going to move around it'll be fine there. If you are worried about that, then go with something that fits the die size. Precisely so go for something like by ten millimeter one, a millimeter, thick shim, now I've placed a thin layer of thermal paste. On top of the divers you can see, I just use some Noctua. This is in th one. You don't have to use a super high quality one, because this is not a 65 watt disc top CPU in here. This is a six watt, CPU and we're, going to only increase it probably to about 10 watts, and it will use 15 watts max. So I've have spread it out, as you can see, with a plastic bag, so I just use my finger and a plastic bag here, it's, just like the begging myth that I think people call it just to put a real nice thin layer on there. You do whatever method you want there, but this is what works for me.

Now, I'm gon na place, a copper shim on the top I've actually decided to go with a larger size that I've used before in the past, with good results. So this one is 20 millimeters by 20 millimeters, one millimeter thick okay, so I just pressed it down. There is more or less centered there and now right in the middle of it I'm, going to place just a very small amount again of that thermal pace that I've used and I have on the back of the copper heatsink. This is the stock one. Of course, just cut out a wider gap here now originally I'd made it for, of course, the 15 mil, and then I had to increase that for the 20 mil that size there so it's just going to have flush contact, then, with the factory, copper heatsink. Yes, it looks a little bit crude here, but I mean this doesn't really matter and I've just spread out all over the top of the heatsink that I placed there that thermal paste just evenly all over the top. You can just put a big blob on the top if you want I'll. Do it, however, method you want now to put the heatsink back on and make sure you put it on the correct way, and now I'm gon na place a two millimeter thick thermal pad on the top here this is going to be transferring heat over to the Rear the bottom of the case of the laptop will get a little bit hotter.

Now there should be fine remember to plug that battery back in if you did unplug it place. The tape, of course, back on top of the plug that's, just to keep it in place, not that it would fall out, and now we need to put the lid back on so it's gon na be a little bit harder to place on. But you just need to apply a little bit of pressure when you screw it back on the more pressure the better on top of our copper heatsink bear all right. I did find this is like a little tiny sponge here. This is to apply pressure on to where the copper heat sink is remove. This you're gon na have to remove that because now we've got a thermal pad in its place, and here what we want to do is go along and just where it says, power limit. One enabled just disable that that's disabling your power limit, so I'll use all the power at once, but we still need to run the software unlock method. If you want the best gaming performance here, you see, I have the power limit disabled, so you go out of the vials here. You got to save it, of course, exit boot back into Windows, okay, so an impressive result here, I've got 83 frames per second and a very easy half life lost coast. Video stress test: you can get this off steam by the way for free to try and compare the results here so max temperatures about 58 60 degrees is what it's going to reach at the moment.

The longer you play the hotter it's going to get, but the same exact test when I did it with 18 watt power limit with no copper, heatsink mod, it reached 93 degrees. So you can see there that the difference is absolutely massive. When you do these mods and you unlock the power limit, you can almost double the framerate. Well, not quite double, because before I got about 58 frames per second, and now it is about 83, almost 84 and they're. Looking at the difference, it's made with a game. This is Counter Strike global Offensive that when I tested this in my review was getting about 30 frames per second and now we're up about and did already up about, 20 frames per. Second. Temperatures are reaching, however, 70 degrees, so it's still getting a little warm. But this is so much cooler than having this stock. If this was stock, it would be running as a thermal throttling 99 degrees now without the copper, heatsink mod and no power limit, of course.