, So I've just finished my full review of this particular model and before I can do any sorts of mods it's always the case. With my reviews, I have to review them as stock, so that goes for Android devices and must be the stock rom, no custom roms and when it comes to things like tablets and these laptops, no modifications to the one. So ever so, my review with the stock 9 watt TDP that it has set the power limit. It gets up to 93 degrees Celsius, which is a little too hot, so I'm, going to remove the heatsink here. Take a look at the thermal pad that's underneath perhaps re paste it so I've got some similar paste right here and then add a thermal pad onto the top to see if I can lower those temperatures now, if the temperatures do turn out to be low enough, Then I will also try running it with an unlocked or increased power limit always place to be safe, so I've unplugged it here now. This will probably reset the BIOS settings so just be aware of that here, but why I'm unplugging it so we don't have any power going through this. There should be no power going through it, but imagine it accidentally turns on. We could short something out. Also, try to earth yourself and use an anti static, mat. Okay, so I've got the heatsink off as you can see, and it just had this thermal pad on the top of it, and I believe what's happening in my case here that there seems to be a bit of an arc to this copper, heatsink and so it's.

Not actually sitting 100 flush, applying pressure or enough pressure to actually have a good contact with the top of the CPU die there. So that is probably why I got up to 93 degrees. So if you placed a thermal pad on top that will give some more pressure between the rear of the case, the alloy, which is right here. So you have that pressing down a top on top of it then, and I don't think it would then run into any problem, so that's prolly. All you need to do interesting to note here as well. The RAM so we've got four gigabytes right here and space for another four. So even though windows reports that send dual channel, it may looks like and well now, doesn't it that it's only running in single channel, probably the way that this is set up. You can see here that the stocks will pad it's very thin, it's, only half a millimeter, the thickness of there, so that also could be a bit of a problem why it didn't have so much pressure. So in the past, with the bay try, cheery trails and the Apollo Lakes, what I used to do was just put a copper shim on top here now, there's a little bit risky. Now you use a thermal paste that's non conductive, so this one here from Noctua isn't. So if use one of those liquid metal ones, you will definitely run into problems. You need to protect all those little surrounding resistors.

Now. The issue with this is that there's a very small gap between the resistors and then the copper shim, so in theory it could move, it could touch. It could shut something out now. I'Ve run this and done this now for years without any issues, so I don't think it's going to be a problem, but I think here that it's not actually needed so I'm. Just gon na put a little bit of thermal paste on the top here and then simply place the stock, copper heatsink back on there because it's, a large, copper heatsink, and this should really do the job, especially when I add a thermal pad onto the top of It now to make sure it's gon na apply pressure without the issue that I had when I first took my soph, I could see that it wasn't and actually had a little bit of a bend to it upward, so it wasn't applying enough pressure. So what I've done I've just bent it inwards ever so slightly you don't wan na, do it too much, then it won't actually sit flat on top of the CPU. So I've done that just a little bit, and that should help, I think, alright. So I'm gon na try and put the tiniest little bit here, no I'm not left handed it's the camera tripod that's in the way, so just a very small little bit now you use your own method for this replying thermal paste.

This is just what I like to do. I like to use a plastic bag, then to get a very thin even coat. I know maybe it's not the best method, but for me it just works. So do whatever works for you, okay, so done it. Doesn'T actually spread out as good as I hoped it would it's a little bit thicker the NT h1 paste here that I have used, then the typical ones I normally go with and now the placement of the thermal pad so I'm gon na go with a two Millimeter thick one here, which could actually be too thick, might have to be one millimeter, but even so I'm gon na put it about here where the the chipset was where that dyers and then I'll apply now pressure straight over that transfer heat onto the back of The case so I get the case on, I think it's still gon na fit just fine, but before you do that, don't forget, of course, to plug that battery back in alright. So it closed down perfectly fine with just a little bit of pressure on here. I hope that 2 millimeters is actually thick enough. If not, I might have to go a little bit thicker, but this should be fine screw it in place here. It'S, not bulging, nothing, strange, let's, boot it up now and check the temperatures alright. So the results are pretty much fantastic: okay, you're, looking at 74 76 degrees at the moment and that's a huge improvement over my 93 degrees playing games, but look at the frame rate here.

That is because I have removed the power limit, so the power limit now is completely unlocked. It can consume all the power at once, and performance is up now, because this is project cars which I tested in. My review ran at 5 frames per second and it's. Getting up to 20 frames per second now, so that is a performance increase of about what is that 250 300. That is really something. So that is good to see. We can finally open up the performance of the Gemini lake in 4100. Here, alright, so it looks like the power limit being completely unlocked is just a little bit too demanding here. Can you can see that now got up to 86 degrees? So, yes, it's getting hot? The case is getting hot, but I just wanted to test what kind of temperatures that would reach without any power limits. Now I haven't shown you, but without the power limits being touched, so the Stockwood comes out of the box, which is 9 watts. You only get temperatures now with my thermal mod up to about 71 degrees, maximum, so it's lowered at about 20 degrees, which is really good now to scroll down here and show you now that, because we've unlocked the power limits that it can consume now right up Here to almost 15 watts, so that's quite a lot for this chipset and remember that the stock will only be about 9 watts maximum that it will let the CPU consume so boost the GPU performance massively, but it will lower battery life, it will increase heat and The case does get really quite hot now I have to show you counter strike again, so this is the same settings as my review with 720p and on the low settings, so the frame rate has pretty much just doubled here because of my review.

It was around 20 frames per second it's. Now up to about 54, you can see maximum, so it's made a huge difference and to see here that not like project cars, the frame rates are not the frame rate. The temperature is sticking to about 80 degrees maximum. It doesn't seem to go over that which is really good here, so it seems it's going to maintain it with my thermal pad mod and no power limits set half life. The Lost Coast is running so much faster as well. The frame rate has doubled over the stock. Nine watts power limit that you get out of the box and the OpenCL score now gets a healthy boost of almost two thousand points. Thanks to the unlocked power limits so now checking just how hot it's getting after 20 minutes of gaming the case of it at the top here 42 degrees. So that is very warm to the touch getting quite hot. Remember that thermal pad is transferring all that heat over now to the case, so there we go surprising what a little bit of thermal paste and a thermal pad can do to really improve temperatures. So if I didn't change the power limit, max temperatures are about 70 degrees that has dropped down a huge 23 degrees over the stock setup that they had on. This I've had the thermal pad but, as I noticed it, wasn't very good contact and pressure being applied from the copper heatsink onto the chipset itself.

So that was why my unit got really hot. This might not be happening to yours, so if you do want to really get that massive amount of performance there's a link in the description of this video, they will head over to my website to the forum of where you can remove the power limits with software. Because when you change it in a bias it doesn't actually seem to take, but with software it will and there you can just completely unlock the GPU. Basically is what is happening so it'll clock up as high as it once uses much power, and you double your framerate in gaming, which is really amazing, but it will get hot.