Cube i7 Book Internals, Thermal Mod Ideas & Results
If you see my review, you would have seen that it got up to 97 degrees and the reason behind that is, if you have a look at photos that are on the website tech tablets comm, we have up there, there is actually no thermal pad between the Aluminium heat spreader they have on there and the rear housing, so none of that heats being transferred to the rear of it, even though it does get really hot. So what I'm going to do here is just open the tablet up here and see if I can just improve things, probably just put a large thermal pad on there – maybe add a little bit of copper, puck or copper like I've done in the past. So before I start doing this mod, I just want to go over a couple of things that if you haven't done this kind of thing before then please don't attempt this. If you have no experience with this as well and also I'm, not responsible, if you end up somehow cracking your screen, opening it or you make a big mess of it or you damage the tablet in any kind of way. So you do all of this at your own risk. So what I've found with these cubes, just like the ice 7 book, that the easiest place to start to open them up? It'S, just along the top here with the antennas, because it's plastic against plastic it's a little more flexible than trying to open it on the corners, which is probably the hardest part.
So you can use either a qatar pic. I like to use a credit card, or here is just like a sim card, because it's a little bit softer the plastic and it's a little bit more forgiving when going up against other plastic. So i started it off just long here along the edge and just get in there and just go along popping the little clips in there be careful not to break anything now. The hardest part is just around the corners and you've also got to be very careful around where the speakers are because there's a little grill in there too, that we don't want to damage. So you just go around there popping all that open and then you should be able to pry the case off. Just take your time, go around very slowly and try not to damage anything. You can hear it's going to make a few clicking noises going to make some noise there. That sounds like you're breaking something but that's. Just the the clips they're breaking free. Now I felt it was easier to go down each side here and then because the bottom has the Pogo 10 pin Pogo ports on they're a little harder to get off. So then, you can just kind of just slide the the back out the back played out and then pull it down from the bottom there because it's a little harder there and there we go so that has come off.
Have a look so I can see a bit a huge copper plate on the back there, which is really good that's. Approximately it looks like one millimeter or actually half a millimeter, and there we go. You can see no thermal pad so that it's kind of crazy. They haven't put that on there so there's, nothing to transfer that heat over why they might have done. This is maybe to keep some of the what's called make the the skin temperature down. So the outer casing doesn't get too hot. So look now at the motherboard here it in some detail, so you can see it. Is they obviously the pogo port there there's some weights on the bottom here that's for the magnets for the keyboard to dock into, and there is the SSD and we can see the Intel Wireless, and this is just a thin aluminium they've got on there. They'Re, probably just a thermal pad underneath there, so I already I can see loads of room for improvement and right there on the slide. As the speakers and the two battery cells there, which are, apparently you can see right, there marked 4500 milliamp hours. So all up nine thousand and there's just a couple of ports down here: connectors there's, no spear connector there for a modem, so obviously no plans for a modem version or they can see. There is one ribbon, cable, Lego, kind of connector there, but nothing's going to that.
So I don't know what that purposes of that for – and you see that there are dual antennas – is one in ten of the top here and then the other one just along there. So upgrading the m2 SSD should be quite easy: it's a 22 millimeter by 42 millimeter one so you need to do – is unscrew that screw there slot it out, but I recommend taking a Windows image backup first, so you can restore that to your new larger Drive. You can go right up to 512 gigabytes, I think's the maximum size you can get, but most people normally go and get the 256 or 128 because 6, four gigabytes for myself personally really isn't cutting it. So before we start to do anything, make sure you touch the outer housing of, for example, a tower PC trying to earth yourself. Don'T go untouched, your fluffy cat or your dog and get all static electricity and go touching around here with your fingers. Because then, you will do some damage and short something out. The best thing to do is to remove the battery plug right here on the side now it's a little tough to get out, I think I'm going to probably have to pull that off out of camera. Okay, so disconnecting the battery there was a little harder than I expected, but there's a board along here they can. You can use to help flex it up when you pull that out, just be give.
We don't damage any of the cables that go into that. Of course, so there's a couple of things we can do what I've done before on the other quorums that I've done this model on, for example, the Q by night. All I did is put a a 20 millimeter by 20 minute: copper shim on top between the aluminium here and the corium die below so that's 20 millimeters by 20 millimeters and the thickness is 1 millimeter, more or less. You can do that now. If you want a quick and easy fix, you can probably just go and slap on a huge thermal pad, so you can buy this all of these parts I'm showing you here. You can get off eBay and most electronic shops to be able to source this stuff. For you, so I've got a nice big, huge thermal pad here, that's one a millimeter thick, I don't know whether that's going to be thick enough. To be honest, I want a nice amount of contact on the rear, copper foil, that they have put on the back of it. So something like that you could put on there, but obviously it doesn't need to be that big. So I do have also a 2 millimeter one here and you could cut that to size, so that's actually going to be quite a good size there. So what I could do, ideally just chop that along here to that to the dimensions of this and and then that could be it that'll probably be enough to lower temperatures, I would say, maybe even a good 10 degrees or so so people want to know the Dimensions here of this, so I will just measure that so this is 60 millimeters and if I can see how tall it is, don't want to touch anything to cause any damage and then 105 millimeters and link there and the spacing of the screws where the holes Are just more or less in the middle there, so that is okay, that's telling me 43 it's about 43, there, 44 43 millimeters each side and the gap between them.
Sorry I've got a tripod here, so it's a little awkward for me to measure this, and that is at 2021, probably 20 and seeing 21. Actually, you know at 22 millimeters along there, so that's for someone that makes wants to make their own, for example, own copper plate on it. Like do you have a piece of copper again, I sourceless from ebay a nice copper plate here. That is one a millimeter thick, so I could actually fabricate something or drill the holes out. So I can have that screwed on top cut that down here and the thing got to be concerned about. Is this shorting out components below you're going to be really careful about that? So, ideally, you want to put an anti well an insulating tape along the top. Is something that's not going to cause any shorts, so you can have a less that screw down and not worry about that, and this would transfer a lot of heat away. And I imagine when this you could pretty low temperatures about 20 degrees or so that plus a thermal pad and then transferring with all. You need to do here so I'm going to just take this off now and have a quick look and see what I'm going to do for my own unit. So I just removed these four screws I'm. So puzzled is why Ted cube not put thermal pad on this. On the top, I mean they put a thermal pad on the cube by nine.
So why didn't they do it here and then that's, probably why this is getting up to 97 degrees if they put a thermal pad on there like they did in previous models, normally put the swivel pad right in the space here, that's straight above where the core Is the core em? Then we wouldn't be getting those kind of temperatures anyway, a list can be improved, so it's pull this up. Okay, that's got to like a protection on the back of it to stop any shorting and then just put a huge thermal pad on there, which looks to be about a millimeter thick. You can see the RAM chips right. There there's RAM chips, our Samsung Samsung ones. There sorry I'll get the camera to focus there. We go, and actually there is space here, see that they could probably actually fit a second Drive in there or put the modem in there that's if they were going to release a 4G or 3G version so I'm going to peel this off. Just give it a quick, clean and think about what I'm going to do, whether I'm just going to opt it. One of these, I think, might be the best solution. I don't really want to go to all the links of having to fabricate or create a huge copper plate, although that would give the greatest benefit, of course, and really reduce temperatures. One thing I was thinking: if you were going to make your own huge, copper plate here, you can probably do and it's something like this, so you could cut this to dimensions, drill the holes and what I think would be easier would be probably just to sand This right down so it's nice and rough use, some thermal adhesive and then glue on a a one and one millimeter thick plate there and that will sit on top of the CPU and then the screws on the other sides there or help hold that down.
But, of course we want to make sure we do have some insulation and slating tape on top of us, but something that's going to withstand, of course up to around about eighty degrees or 90 degrees. However, hot it's going get so you make, you have to make sure you use the correct tape, they're, just any old tape. Won'T do because that could disintegrate and you could have lots of trouble with it mounting on there. All sorts of problems and in DaVinci calls are short alright, so I decided I'm going to crudely fabricate my own copper plate here and I've just drilled holes similar to that to the mounting screws there to mount this back on there, and I have just sanded this And scratched it up, what I'm going to do is get the twenty by twenty one, millimeter thick, copper, plate and I'm going to use some similar. He Civ and put it on like that and then screw all of this on top now, of course, I'm worried about shorts. On this I thought you can actually, I think, pull the material off this and maybe be able to stick that on the back of the copper plate. But another idea I had is using my thinnest thermal pad here. Just cover the whole thing on thermal pad. Apart from this square area, of course, that's going to have contact with the die, speaking of which the die that I did actually clean it right here, you can see I've just cleaned it up.
I did notice that the thermal pad they used is perfectly fine there's. Nothing wrong with that. I'Ve just got it right here, but it was actually burning a little bit on one side there, so they're not really good to see I'm, not too sure if that died below is the GPU. I think the dual core that's a dual call they're, those that one there and then the GP at the top, but it's showing signs that it was actually getting really hot there, because I had to use a lot of alcohol and remove it to get rid of That so I put the one millimeter thermal pad over the top here and I'm just going to use a knife just to cut around to take off the thermal pad. Of course, on top of whether it's going to have contact with the CPU I'm going to put some thermal paste on top of that, okay, so now I have my very really rough copper plate here and on the back there you can see that's. Where is going to have contact? I just cut some little holes there, so this screws can go through nice and easy now going to put some thermal paste on I'm going to use some mx4 honestly it's not going to really matter what you use. Any thermal paste will be fine because this isn't your desktop, i seven that you're overclocking or anything to 4.7 gigahertz, no it's, nothing like that, but this should do the job so I'm going to go apply some of that off camera, because this comes out so easy.
Last time I did it on camera or life on the camera, just a made a huge mess of it and use too much thermal paste. Okay, so another really crap paste job. There I put too much on again. It just comes out so easy, just flows out anyway, I'm – not really too fussy with this, because I think that that should be fine. Okay, maybe it's gon na be a little bit overflow, but that overflow should just sit in those little grooves either side. I don't think it's going to cause any problems. Okay, so they did not go well at all and the reason is because the screws they don't sit flush in there I'm going to get the camera to focus on that. And that was a big problem for me, because there's not enough thread that is actually going to reach in there, and the other thing too, is that some of the components here are causing it to not sit down low enough that I would like. So you can see what I have. You can see that pressure to put pressure on here. So me I'm going to have to go around and just cut little holes there and the thermal pad I don't think putting the thermal pad on the inside is a good idea. I may have to scrap this all together and just go with a 20 by 20 millimeter, copper, shim. Alright, this is turning into a mission of a mod, but hopefully now I should be able to screw it on.
You can see the threads are there and any other components like the RAM and things where my one millimeter thermal pad could actually be too thick. So I think using the thermal pad is a big headache, a big problem and you're, probably better off just using just the copper shim and not going my method. This is turning into a nightmare I'm gon na see, if I can mount it now, alright. So, in the end I had to remove the thermal pad that I put underneath it's just too thick it's not going to work, you'll probably have to use only half a millimeter. So what I did put some insulation tape all underneath it screwed it on sorry. I didn't show you that, because I will I was having a bit of a hell of a time actually to get it on there properly and this video isn't really going as planned. So now I'm going to put the two millimeter thick thermal pad. On top of the whole copper there, I've got so it's a huge amount of space. There I'm just hoping that it's not going to be too thick here, if it's too thick, that I'm have to going to reduce that just to the one millimeter pad that's too thick it's going to play pressure which could end up applying pressure onto the screen on The other side, or I won't, be able to close the I won't be able to put the backing on it, because the vacuums got the copper on the back and that should be able to transfer a really good amount of heat through there.
I guess we're just applying that two millimeter sic thermal pad and now I will put the rear case back on and hopefully it's going to power up that I haven't shorted anything out from static. So when you put it back it's best to start with the Pogo pin end first and make sure you have the volume buttons placed in there and you put the cable back in for the power so I'm going to try and now do this put it back Together, hopefully it will clip back in because my thermal pad is quite large flip this around slot it in and keeping it this down. So the volume buttons don't come out of place there, which they'll just come out of place for me. Okay, so that didn't go too well it's too thick my thermal pad, as I thought it might be, and you can see where it left an impression right here. The contact area, but along this side is quite thin, so either need to move the pad down and try again, but I think what I'll do is. I will just use what I have left of a one millimeter pad that I first tried to put underneath it and just put that along here somewhere right in the middle okay. This is my last attempt I'm going to put it in the middle here. This is now a one millimeter thermal pad it's hot I'm, tired – and this is dragging on too long or I total went back together.
Okay and I've just been looping or just did three tests of three mark 11 just to get it as hot as possible and they're still getting quite warm on the back here. So I'll just quickly check the temperatures with my infrared thermal probe, so it's getting up to 40 40 degrees there. So a little cooler to the touch, but the more you the more you keep looping it. Then the heat will start to build up, but that actually seems a little bit lower than what it was stock. So the most important thing here is: how did that improve the temperatures? I just wanted to add that what I did here is I've just added a boost to the power max. I set that to 12 watts and the short power max to 20 now will never reach that kind of wattage, and here are the temperatures so maximum temperature. Now 1769 degrees there so that it's a huge improvement from 97 massive one. Give you a closer look there so 69 degrees. It is performing really well too because have a look at this 3dmark score that I managed to get, and that is up from this. The score I got with this: the stock set up the stock thermals, which is a really good score anyway, for a core m3, and now that is up approximately. What would that be about 25 percent improvement and performance? You see the physics score, the graphics score that has gone right out, so not a bad result there.
It was a bit of a headache and sorry about how long this video has dragged out to be I'm quite tired, and it turned out to be a little bit of a nightmare. But, to be honest, I think you could probably get some good results. Just putting a 20 millimeter by 20 millimeter, one millimeter, thick, copper shim in between the die and then the heat shielding on there. So if you do that and then put a thermal pad on top of one millimeter or 2 millimeter thermal pad. On top of that, then you should be fine. That'Ll probably give you results very similar to this. Maybe am I get up to about 74 degrees or something like that, but it's still a huge improvement.