This little setup, uh yeah. This follow up, took a lot longer than i’d planned, but here we are so let’s uh let’s get to work. This video is brought to you by autonomous if you’re like me, you’ve been spending way too much time sitting in a gaming chair at your desk, and i get it. You know gaming chairs. They seem cool at least at first, but wow. Are they they horrible to sit in at least most of them? It’S time to upgrade i have, and the cherry landed on is the ergo chair 2 by autonomous the ergo chair 2 has a breathable back comfortable seat with seating dimensions of 20 inches by 20 inches and supports up to 350 pounds. The backrest can be tilted up to 20 degrees and the seat height is adjustable from 18 to 20 inches. The ergo chair 2 comes in six colors and has a two year warranty with a 30 day trial, and the best part, though, is that the ergo chair 2 has all the value of other great ergo chair brands. Without the insanely, overpriced price tag and fun fact. If you use the link in the description below and my code major hardware, you can get eight percent off come on it’s, obvious it’s time to upgrade your chair question one. Do you remember what this even is? If not, this is a plastic radiator and we made it in a video a while ago on the photon mono sc, and the question was, is: if you want one, can you 3d print a radiator, it will hold water yeah and surprisingly, this is actually the same Water that it had in it when we made the video it’s, i threw it in the room over there and it’s actually still holding water, which is surprising in and of itself and then two does it work and it does it’s not like the best.

But it did keep the system from thermally throttling, which i thought was pretty impressive and then, after that video went live a lot of you guys asked me now. If you were to 3d print that again and then put something like thermally conductive in it, would it would it work better good question and that’s we’re going to find out today, because i have copper powder, which is exactly what it sounds like and we’re going to 3D print three new radiators one in just plastic like this one uh two with a little bit of copper powder and then three with as much copper powder as we can try to get away with before it like, tries to settle out and then we’re gon na See if they get any better any worse or no change, we’re gon na make we’re gon na design a new raider, because this is this was kind of just modeled after the one i had just to make it look similar and we don’t need to be that Aggressive, we just need something that will pass water through some tubes in front of a fan to profit and this time around we’re going to use the elegu saturn to print our radiator, which i hope will make our lives a little easier. Given we have a much larger build volume this time around. Also, i took it out of the box and look at this cool little uh little vinyl they put on there.

It says major hardware nice, i do like it. Didn’T know they’re gon na do that, but that’s cool and i’m excited to use this thing, because it’s it’s a lot larger than like uh like a mars or the photon mono se, and when we printed this last time in that littler printer, we were pretty limited To how we were able to position the radiator, but with this guy we got a little more space, so we hopefully can optimize that angle a little better and in the future we have a lot more space for activities for other projects. But right now we need to make a new radiator that’s simpler than that one and cooler Music, Music, Music, so we’re making progress, to say the least. The the radiator thingy is now printed it’s, watertight, there’s water in it now working just fine, at least when it comes to moving water through it. Now this isn’t, the one that you saw me design and print in the time, lapse that one had a bit of dlam on these bends and then after i sealed it up. The passages were just a little too small and too restrictive to the flow. So i opened them up by another mill, took them from four to three and it seemed to work a lot better. Also, i cut it in. I cut it down a little bit to make it 120 millimeters wide just so i could print it flat up against the build plate of the saturn and that took the print time from eight and a half hours to one and a half hours, which is much Much much nicer, but now the tricky part.

So what i think we’re gon na do is take the reservoir dump it in this little glass, jug and then probably use maybe half a tablespoon of copper powder mix it in there and see if we can get a print to work with just that. Much copper powder, my fear, being that it’s going to separate out giving copper kind of heavy uh and then it’s just not going to print, but if we can get it to print with just a little copper powder, then we’ll do another one after that, uh with A bit more and we’ll kind of just go from there let’s see if it works, so the fear we had of the the copper powder separating out of the resin over time looks to be founded. You can actually look in the tank right now and see an outline of the radiator we just printed now. Granted. It is the next day so it’s had quite a bit of time to separate out, but i guess, if you look at what we printed first off it printed well, so it didn’t get clogged up or anything. Yet it looks like it came out pretty decent and it does seem to have an orange tint to it, which makes me think that there is copper within the print. So let me get it out of this and cleaned up and we’ll see just how much if any copper powder made it into our little radiator here it did.

Actually, you know, spread a little bit of copper powder throughout the entire print. Now there is more, it seems on the bottom or the first initial layers, but i can’t see it all the way through and we didn’t use that much. But it is there and i wonder, will it make a difference? Uh we’re, going to test it on my i7, 7700k and i’m going to down clock it to 4.5 gigahertz, because i know 4.9 will just burn these up. There’S no chance that that’s ever gon na work, but we’ll run it at 4.5, i’m gon na run it for an entire hour to make sure that the system is entirely heat. Soaked and we’ll see if there’s a difference between this goofy plastic radiator. And then this goofy plastic radiator with a little bit of copper powder huh. So starting with the plastic radiator, the room temperature was 20.1. The average temperature settled in at 90.3, giving us a delta of 70.2, and we saw a maximum temperature of 99 degrees. Now, there’s, no getting around it 99 degrees is pretty toasty for a max temperature, but throughout the run the average temperature was in a zone more acceptable, meaning that this, although it doesn’t, really look like a radiator, it is functioning like one keeping the cpu cool enough To perform the ida 64 stress test for an entire hour without thermally. Throttling question is: is a little bit of copper going to make that any better, so the same design, but this time with a little bit of copper powder had a room temperature of 19.

7. An average temperature of 19.5 gives us a delta of 70.8, and again we saw a max temperature of 99., meaning that pretty much these performed uh identically. You could say that this one maybe did a little worse, but in the grand scheme of things, that’s margin of error and essentially they came out with the same exact, the same exact numbers. They kept it from throttling, but they they weren’t. What you’d call you would call good, but what, if we step it up a little bit? What if we add a bit more copper? Initially, we were a little light because we were afraid it wouldn’t print, but it printed so let’s go big Music, so Music now i’m going to be honest, i i expected to mix the copper resin slurry together and then pour the mud into the you know. Printer kind of just as a meme, because i there was no way in my mind. There was no way that that giant slurry of copper was going to print. I expected it just to spit out like a a block of plastic but i’m happy to report. That was not the case. It actually printed it printed pretty good. It had a little bit of issues. There were some holes to deal with, but in the end it looks the same but darker colored and there’s. No doubt that this radiator has much more copper within it than well that one doesn’t have any, but this one.

The question is, though, is all that effort worth anything? Will this do any better than these two plastic ones? So the plastic rated here with a high concentration of copper powder had a room temperature of 20.2. It had an average temperature of 86.8, giving us a delta of 66.6 and the maximum temperature. This time around was 96 degrees, and i didn’t see that coming. I don’t know about you guys, but after running this one and seeing it do a little bit worse, if not the same, i was like well. This is probably going to be hot garbage, but it wasn’t. It was actually a bit better and it seems a bit suspect to me. So i decided to run the test again to see if it would just kind of slowly climb into infinity and beyond, but rather than shut it all down and let everything go back to room temperature and then restart the test. I just decided let’s just let’s. Just keep going so i hit clear start another timer and we ran for a second hour and surprisingly, in the second hour, the room temperature dropped a little bit to 20 degrees, the average temperature climbed just a hair to 89.4 and the maximum stayed below 99 at 98 degrees giving us a delta of 69.4 – and i don’t know about you, but i think that means that copper, infused resin does better than just resin and keep in mind. This is a this is a hot garbage interpretation of a radiator.

I essentially just made some squiggly lines and ran fluid through it behind a fan and it worked, and when you put copper in it, although it was a bit of a mess to deal with it worked better now, i would still recommend using a normal radiator from Like ek or a reputable brand than printing one yourself, but in a jam, if you wanted to you, could do it at your own risk, but it was fun. What else should we do with uh? I got a lot of this copper powder left.